Complex Movement, Simple Style: Monsieur De Chanel

At first glance, Chanel’s Monsieur de CHANEL, with its white surface, presents hour, minute, second and other information in a simple configuration. The actual function is like a three-hand watch, which should not be too complex? Do not. Sometimes the simpler the surface, the more profound the connotation.

   Let’s start with style. Although the launch of Monsieur de CHANEL is at the beginning of the year, it is also reasonable to look back at this year’s timepieces at the end of the year. What impressed me was his ‘Monsieur’ status. After all, Chanel has never had a watch for a man before. This is the first model that breaks through the brand’s long-standing practice. It can also be said that it has shaped Chanel like never before. The style of the watch is simple, without adding too much decoration to the dial, even those who do not understand the watch can see it at a glance. At the same time, it is not as popular as the cheap models that rely on simple designs.

The French actor Gaspard Ulliel, who played the leading role in the movie ‘It’s Just the End of the World,’ wore a Chanel Monsieur de CHANEL watch at the 69th Cannes Film Festival.

   As for the matching of Monsieur de CHANEL, in fact, it is suitable for both formal and casual wear. For example, at the Cannes Film Festival, the actor of the movie ‘But it’s the end of the world’ wore this watch in a handsome suit; when he rolled up his sleeves in a shirt, the special dial design can also be used on the black alligator The combination of the belt exudes noble texture and taste. (By the way, the director of ‘But It’s the End of the World’ also won a jury award at the 69th Cannes Film Festival for this film.)

Gaspard Ulliel in a casual shirt wearing Monsieur de CHANEL.

   Although the style is simple, in fact Monsieur de CHANEL is not as ordinary as hours, minutes and seconds. Its retrograde minute hand alone is worthy of appreciation. The design of the retrograde hand of many models is mostly presented at 180 ° and can only be adjusted in one direction. The retrograde minute hand of Monsieur de CHANEL uses a large angle action of 240 °, in addition to having a larger expression space on the dial In addition to improving the visual aesthetics, it is necessary to make the movement completely smooth and avoid unnecessary vibration due to too strong force. It can also be adjusted in two directions, which is not simple. In this regard, Nicolas Beau, the director of Chanel International Watches, once proudly told me.

Chanel’s first men’s watch, with a digital jumping hour and 240 ° retrograde minute hand, is simple and unique.

   Another thing that made Beau feel extremely confident was the digital time jump of Monsieur de CHANEL. This function is presented at 6 o’clock on the dial and framed by the Paris-based Fontaine-shaped outer frame. It is also a representative shape that Chanel has used for a long time. The reason why the numbers are chosen to display hours is because numbers have long been an important element of Chanel, such as ‘No.5’ perfume or the legendary ‘J12’. And since it’s time to jump, of course, it must be at the hour-jump! When the hour changes, there will be a slight vibration, and that power will be transmitted directly to the wearer’s wrist, reminding him: time, will take you through another hour of years.

Calibre 1, Chanel’s first self-made movement, diameter 32 mm, thickness 5.5 mm, with instant jump time, retrograde minute function, 170 components, 30 rubies, double barrels in series, power reserve 72 hours, vibration frequency 28,800 times per hour.

   It is these two designs that impress me with this watch. After all, Monsieur de CHANEL has a very complicated inner world under the seemingly simple appearance. It is equipped with Chanel’s first in-house movement, hence the name ‘Calibre 1.’ From the case back of the sapphire crystal back, you can see the ring bridge, wheel train and balance wheel. Especially the balance wheel, especially the five-pointed star design of Ms. Chanel. The border of the board uses the piping design of the Chanel tweed jacket to express the brand elements in detail. On top of it is a lion, symbolizing authority and power, and also representing the identity of Lady Chanel Leo; according to Beau, this lion It is the exclusive mark of Chanel’s self-made movement. It may also appear on Calibre 2, Calibre 3, Calibre 4 … in the future.

   Honestly, I really like this Monsieur de CHANEL. Not only is it special, but the first men’s watch with homemade movement is indeed a breakthrough for Chanel. Looking at it from the beginning of the Basel watch exhibition to the present, it has taken another year (it is obviously three months). Although I haven’t made a wish to Santa Claus for many years, I still hope that Chanel will launch such a surprising work again next year.

Monsieur de Chanel 18KBeige beige gold / platinum case, diameter 40 mm, thickness 10 mm, digital hour, retrograde minute hand, small second hand, Calibre 1 manual winding movement, power reserve 72 hours, sapphire crystal mirror and rear Case back, waterproof to 30 meters, alligator strap.